Colombia

After Panama (see blog) and Costa Rica (see blog) I flew to Cartagena, Colombia and spent the next two months seeing as much of Colombia and Venezuela (see blog) as I could.

The good stuff: Thanks to Hollywood and the perceptions created by the movie industry Colombia is a well kept secret and not usually part of the 'gringo trail' through South America. This is one of the most beautiful and geographically diverse countries in the world rich with culture and beauty. The people here are some the most genuine, helpful, and friendly souls that I can only compare with Costa Rica and parts of Asia at this point. Prices for hotel and food are relatively low. I started to look at condos in the Boca Grande area of Cartagena with prices from $15k to $40k compared to Panama City of $80k to $600k. After living in Central America for a year I was very surprised at the lack of drug usage in Colombia not to mention the lack of people trying to sell it on the streets. Another American myth down the drain. The beaches on the Caribbean side are gorgeous and the central portions of the country are filled with lush Andean mountains ranges.

The NOT so good stuff: I didn't find anything I didn't like in Colombia except the people trying to sell stuff in the Cartagena area can be a little pushy.

Where to go: Bogota is a wonderful city of almost 9 million people that are some of the friendliest in the world. The bus stations and airports are spotless, safe, and with great food and shopping. The city itself is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world packed with the latest styles of clubs, restaurants, hotels, shopping, etc. Cartagena is the most touristy but still worth it. Please check out the (Cartagena blog) for more info. Barranquilla and Santa Marta are OK to visit but you'll want to spend most of your time in the Tayrona Park area. Please see (Lost City blog) for more info. Manizales is a quaint city that's great for visiting the Zona Cafetera and Los Nevados National Park which is home to the huge Volcano of Nevado Ruiz (over 16,000 ft high). Medellin and Cali I think are the best cities in Colombia, each with about 2 million people, including some of the most gorgeous women on the planet.

Where NOT to go: Allegedly there are some areas near the Darien Gap and eastern areas of the country where guerillas protect coca fields but I have no first hand experience with these areas.

After Colombia I went through Ecuador and into Peru to hike the famous Inca Trial to Machu Picchu (see blog).

Lost City Trek - Colombia

I traveled from Cartagena (see blog) to the town of Santa Marta to book the trek to the Lost City.

Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) was built between 500 and 700 AD by the Tayrona Indians who hid the city so well that not even they could find it. Eventually it was reclaimed by the jungle but recently discovered in 1975 by a treasure seeker and his son. There are only two ways into Ciudad Perdida – one is a helicopter and the other is a 6 day trek through the jungles and slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in northern Colombia. It started with the gathering of an eclectic group of 11 in Santa Marta (5 teachers from Cartagena, 3 Dutch people, a Spanish guy, a German girl and myself). We boarded a 'chiva' (see pic) in Santa Marta and rode it up the muddy cliffs, getting out pushing on occasion, to a remote town in the mountains. Soon we were ankle deep in mud trekking up and down (and up and down) walls of mud through the jungle and across the rivers stumbling onto little villages and views of Colombia that made even the biggest feel small. For some people fatigue started to set in on day one but by day three we were all feeling it. It was near the end of the rainy season so the mud and the rivers were thicker than usual not to mention the mosquitoes were out in full force. The park is filled with paramilitary guys in camouflage and fully automatic rifles who are there to protect the crops and farmers within the Tayrona park. The US has been spraying the coca fields in Colombia so now they're growing it in the protected National Parks. Sounds bad but it's a local cash crop that even the locals can't afford to buy because of the US/Euro demand that drives up the prices. Even the paramilitary guys that I talked to only wanted a smoke and didn't seem strung out like 70% of Belizeans or 90% of the people in Jaco, Costa Rica.

Each night we would arrive at a structure filled with hammocks and tables. Most people would try to get there before the rain started which seemed to be around 4pm. Some would lag behind and show up drenched but still in good spirits. We would unpack, put on dry clothes, eat dinner, and then off to the hammocks for some bullshitting and sleep. Each morning we would wake around 5:30, pack up, grab café y comida, put on bug spray and wet boots, and head out.

We soon figured out why they lost this city and at times you wish it would've remained lost. In one day you cross the same river 7 times on the way there and 7 more on the way back. The first time is in a metal platform suspended 100 ft up, pulled across with a rope by people on the other side. The other 6 are by holding your pack over your head and stumbling (waste high at times) through the rapids along a rope or by making a human chain. Depending on how much it rained the day before you may be in for quite a ride. The final crossing of the Buritaca River brings you to the base of the 1,600 slippery moss covered steps. At this point my ankles were the size of softballs and I was feeling the effects of my slow recovery from Dengue Fever (see List of Bad Travels blog for more info) in Costa Rica, not to mention my size 12 boots stepping on little Indian steps. We climbed this lost stairway through the clouds and up to the 150 stone terraces, nestled into steep slopes over almost 1,000 acres which was once the foundations of homes to over 3,000 people over a millennium ago. Many of these terraces are still covered by dense jungle and allegedly still contain the treasures of the dead buried within.

On the last day there was a trip to the local tarp covered 'cocaine factory' tucked away in the mountains. The little old man who ran the tour seemed like the happiest guy in the world (see pic) to show us how to make the paste that would later be processed into cocaine and shipped. The paste 'can' be smoked at this point but is deemed 'illegal' by the drug cartels since it cuts into their profits and is punishable by death.

After Ciudad Perdida I headed into Venezuela to see Angel Falls – the highest waterfall in the world (see blog).

Cartagena, Colombia

After Panama (see blog) I flew into Cartagena, Colombia to start my South American trip.

This is one of the best cities I have visited so far and considered by many as one of the World's most beautiful, fascinating, and magical cities. Dating back to 1533, Cartagena was founded by Spanish conquerors as a main port to bring Europeans and their goods into South America. Cartagena is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the best venues for any tourist looking for a good rest with a Caribbean and Colombian flavor. The city was one of the first sanctuaries of freed African slaves in the Americas and is currently populated by an ethnic mix representative of the country's own variety and is the most visited city by tourists in Colombia, so the infrastructure and security are above average.

I ended up staying in the Boca Grande area for a month. It reminded me of Cancun because when you see it from the plane it's a four block strip that extends out for miles lined with new hotels and restaurants. The beaches are perfect with the exception of persistent vendors. If you want to get more of genuine Colombian feel stay in Old Fortress or El Centro area which is surrounded by a wall built in the Spaniards in the 16th century. The wall was built because the wave of pirate attacks over the years before and now serves to protect the living museum of Spanish architecture inside. The streets are packed with shops, cafés, restaurants, bars, and hotels. There are a few clubs that sit high on the wall with great views of the Caribbean and lights from the Boca Grande hotels. Across one of the bays is a huge fortress (Castillo de San Felipe) designed by the Dutch engineer Richard Carr and built in 1657 by the Spanish for protection against pirates while shipping gold out to Europe. You can get lost in the labyrinth of tunnels or walk along the top to get some of the best views of the city.

The people in Cartagena are some of the nicest in the world and will stop to help with directions and transportation reminding me of Costa Ricans. In just one month I left behind quite a few friends and plan to go back some day.

My next stop is Santa Marta for a few days and then a 6 day trek to the Lost City (see blog) in eastern Colombia before heading off to Caracas, Venezuela.